在非死不可里敲着一则留言，对某个陌生人说着一个最近才逐渐理解的道理。关于lomo redscale xr这卷菲林的特性。这一个包装上写着redscale extended range，也就是说，把相机设定在不一样的iso，拍摄出来的色调也不一样。比如说rated at iso 200, processed normally in red/orange tone, rated at iso 50, processed normally in vintage / fade out tone。问题在于，大多数的老母鸡机，准确来说，除了LC-A可以调整iso之外，其他的都没这个设定。不能调iso，不就没得玩了？没关系，iso的意思是底片的感光度，号码越高就对光越敏感。当使用低iso的时候，就表示对光比较没那么敏感，所以，就需要slow shutter来延长曝光时间以达到准确曝光。如果说你手上拥有的只有multi lens哪类point and shoot的相机，我只能说没办法了，除非你把拍完的胶卷再重曝。（奇怪的是，根据我的观察，大多数马来西亚人都不怎么喜欢这类简单又方便使用的傻瓜机，感觉十个当中就有七，八个会问有没有比较“正常”且更多功能一点的。）一般来说，这些所谓比较正常多功能的差别在于，多了重曝和长时间曝光这两个玩意。而有了长时间曝光这个设定，就能使用redscale菲林来达到有别于大红大橘的色调了。
敲了那么多，其实我并没有真正使用过这款胶卷。正确来说，早前一连拍了好几卷的lomo redscale 100，就玩得粉开心了。关于iso 100 和 50-200 的差别，运用道理想当然尔是一样的，差别只在于呈现的色调。所以，不明白的就看图去。
这是正常拍，在一个没有四季的地方拍出了秋天的味道。
长时间曝光，对于一个搞不明白测光表的人来说，别问我准确的曝光值，因为每一次都是纯粹地靠感觉，应该大概是这样就对了。
夜间拍摄，黑鸟飞。从这里可以看出，为什么我喜欢低感光度的胶卷多于高感光度的胶卷。只因低感光度胶卷拍出来的画面是细腻的，不会好像高感光度胶卷拍出来那样粗燥，不懂如何控制。
看了照片后回到文章的第一句话，那位老兄说，可能是因为没有三脚架的关系，当他使用长时间曝光时拍出来的照片都蒙掉了。我就说，没关系啊，慢慢练习就ok的了。以上的照片会蒙吗？不会。可是我也没有使用三脚架，对于像我这样怕麻烦又吝啬的人来说，三脚架从来就没出现在待买名单内。就这样敲着敲着，想起了一年前的自己。
拍出来的照片，就是这样不是人看的，糟糕。从那之后，我就下定决心说，首先一定要有能力把照片拍个清楚，才来说其他的事情。再后来我就这样一直拍一直拍。当照片拿到手后就开始研究分辨该清楚的地方有没有清楚等。庆幸的是，看见改变真的是一件让人欣喜的事物。所以，要继续相信，明天会更好。
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